Paper Wasp Nest — What It Looks Like, Where They Build & Removal in NH
TL;DR
A paper wasp nest is an open, downward-facing umbrella of gray-brown hexagonal cells hanging from a single stalk under your eaves, soffit, deck rail, grill lid, or playset — with no outer shell, so you can see straight into the cells from below. In New Hampshire the builders are the native northern paper wasp (Polistes fuscatus) and the invasive European paper wasp (Polistes dominula, orange-tipped antennae). Nests grow from pea-sized in May to a small plate by August, then collapse at the first hard frost. Anchor removes them for one flat $399, species confirmed first.
Nest structure
Single open comb, no outer envelope — cells visible from below
The defining contrast vs enclosed yellowjacket or hornet nests; UNH Cooperative Extension; Cornell CALS NYS IPM
Native NH builder
Northern paper wasp (Polistes fuscatus), ~¾ inch (≈19 mm)
UNH Cooperative Extension, 'Controlling Wasps, Bees and Hornets Around Your Home,' Dr. Alan T. Eaton
Invasive NH builder
European paper wasp (Polistes dominula) — orange antennae, cavity-nester
First documented in North America near Boston, MA, 1978; Penn State Extension
Sting pain
Schmidt 3.0 — higher than a yellowjacket (2.0)
'Caustic and burning. Distinctly bitter aftertaste. Like spilling a beaker of hydrochloric acid on a paper cut'; Encyclopaedia Britannica
If you can see into the comb, it's a paper wasp — and NH has two species building them
Look up under your eave, porch rail, or grill lid and you find a flat, gray-brown shape — hexagonal cells arranged in a honeycomb facing straight down at you, hanging from a single pencil-thin stalk. No outer shell. No smooth gray wrapper. You can count every cell. That is a paper wasp nest, and it is the only common stinging-insect nest in New Hampshire where you can see directly into the comb from the ground.
That one visual fact is the fastest homeowner ID in stinging-insect pest control: if you can count the cells from five feet away, it is a paper wasp. If it is a smooth sealed gray ball with one hole at the bottom, it is a bald-faced hornet — taxonomically a yellowjacket, not a true hornet. If you cannot see any nest at all but wasps stream steadily in and out of a gap in your siding or a hole in the lawn, you have a concealed yellowjacket colony. Only the open umbrella shape is a paper wasp.
New Hampshire hosts two species building that umbrella. The native northern paper wasp (Polistes fuscatus) is the classic reddish-brown, long-legged wasp UNH Cooperative Extension calls 'a common New Hampshire species.' The invasive European paper wasp (Polistes dominula), which arrived near Boston in 1978 and has been spreading across the Northeast ever since, is black with bright yellow markings and — the fastest single ID cue — bright orange antennae, which no other social wasp in North America has. Both species build the same open comb, but the European species nests more readily inside man-made cavities: grill interiors, pipes, electrical boxes, and wall openings.
Both species sting defensively near the nest. Their sting rates a 3.0 on the Schmidt pain index — higher than a yellowjacket's 2.0 — and because the stinger is smooth, they can sting repeatedly. Colony size stays modest (typically 20–75 cells at peak), but a nest over a frequently used door, a child's playset, or a deck rail is a genuine risk that grows every week from May through August. This page covers what the nest looks like at every stage, where in NH each species builds, what to do and not do, and when it makes sense to call a pro.
Paper wasp nests in southern and central New Hampshire
Both NH paper-wasp species are well established across all of Anchor's service area — Manchester, Nashua, Concord, Derry, Bedford, Salem, Hudson, Amherst, Auburn, Goffstown, Hooksett, Litchfield, Loudon, Milford, and Bristol, spanning Rockingham, Hillsborough, Merrimack, and Strafford counties. The native northern paper wasp is statewide with HIGH prevalence. The European paper wasp is MEDIUM-to-HIGH prevalence in southern NH and still increasing — Penn State Extension documents it fully replacing native paper wasps in parts of the Northeast. The NH nest calendar runs from late April through the first hard frost. Overwintered foundresses emerge once temperatures exceed roughly 50°F and begin founding nests that UNH Extension describes as 'often smaller than a ping-pong ball' at the start. First workers appear in June, the colony reaches its peak of 20–75 cells and dozens of workers through August and September, and then collapses at the first hard frost. For Manchester and southern NH communities, that frost falls around October 19 (50% probability) or October 29 (80%), per NOAA 1991–2020 normals — those dates represent the 32°F light-freeze threshold; true 28°F hard-freeze colony collapse runs roughly 10–20 days later. Concord and Keene typically frost two to three weeks earlier. Manchester-area homeowners can expect active paper-wasp colonies into late October. Foundresses overwinter in sheltered sites inside wall voids, attics, behind siding and shutters, and under loose bark — which is why sluggish wasps appear indoors on warm fall days. Every spring, a fresh foundress starts a brand-new nest; the old comb is never reused, but a favorable attachment point (a protected south-facing eave, a grill hood) may attract a new queen the following year.
Species present in NH
- Northern paper wasp (Polistes fuscatus)
- European paper wasp (Polistes dominula)
Peak activity
August through mid-September
Service area
First-frost anchor: Manchester first 32°F freeze ~Oct 19 (50%) / Oct 29 (80%) per NOAA 1991–2020 normals; true 28°F hard-freeze dates run ~10–20 days later
UNH Cooperative Extension (Dr. Alan T. Eaton) describes the northern paper wasp as 'a common New Hampshire species' whose mated females overwinter 'inside building walls, in attics, or under loose bark' and whose founding nest is 'often smaller than a ping-pong ball' — Resource000532.
What a paper wasp nest looks like — and what to do about it in NH
A paper wasp nest is the only common stinging-insect nest in New Hampshire where you can see directly into the cells from below — and that single fact is the fastest homeowner identification in pest control. Here is the cutaway: a bald-faced hornet or a yellowjacket wraps its combs inside a multi-layered papery envelope, so you see only a smooth gray shell with one small entrance hole at the bottom. A paper wasp does the opposite — it skips the wrapper entirely. What you get is raw hexagonal cells of gray-brown paper arranged in a flat disc, facing straight down at you, suspended from your eave or grill hood by a single pencil-thin stalk called the petiole. Many cells are open; some are capped white with developing pupae. The shape — from the side — looks like a tiny upside-down umbrella. If you can count the cells from five feet away, it is a paper wasp nest. If it is a sealed gray ball, it is not. New Hampshire's two paper wasps build this same structure. The native northern paper wasp (Polistes fuscatus) favors eaves, soffits, porch ceilings, and barn rafters — sheltered wood surfaces on the exterior of a structure. The invasive European paper wasp (Polistes dominula) builds the same open comb but also nests freely inside man-made cavities: grill interiors, wall pipes, electrical boxes, shutter pockets, even ornamental 'bee boxes.' If you found the nest inside a grill or a hollow pipe rather than under an open eave, a European paper wasp (orange antennae) is the most likely builder. Both build the same open comb — the location is the tell for the species. The material is chewed wood fiber. Paper wasps scrape weathered wood from fence rails, barn siding, or deck boards, chew it with saliva into a gray papier-mâché paste, and press it into hexagonal cells. The finished product is noticeably more fragile and thinner-walled than a yellowjacket or hornet nest. Color varies from gray-brown to tan, depending on the local wood source.
Founding — lone queen
Pea / smaller than a ping-pong ball
1 (lone foundress, no workers yet) workers
May (southern NH)
Flat $399 (Anchor) — industry-survey estimate context: $300–$700 typical
A single overwintered queen with no defenders — the cheapest, safest moment to remove the nest. The colony cannot recruit; there is no alarm pheromone cascade. Early action prevents the entire summer season of growth.
Worker emergence
Golf ball
~10–30 workers
June–July (southern NH)
Flat $399 (Anchor)
First workers are now active and will defend the nest on disturbance. Still a relatively small colony and manageable for a professional. DIY risk begins to rise as worker count climbs; a pro is advisable for nests above head height or near high-traffic areas.
Colony peak
Small plate / palm-sized (roughly 20–75 cells)
~20–75 cells, dozens of workers at maximum workers
August–September (southern NH)
Flat $399 (Anchor)
Maximum worker count, maximum sting risk (Schmidt 3.0, repeated stings, alarm-pheromone recruitment). This is when 'I'll wait it out' is most dangerous — the colony is at its largest and most defensive precisely when NH outdoor activity peaks. Professional removal strongly recommended.
Colony collapse / abandoned comb
Abandoned — same small-plate size, but empty and brittle
0 (all workers dead; only new queens have dispersed) workers
After first hard frost — Manchester ~mid-to-late October; Concord/Keene ~early-to-mid October. Published 32°F dates: Manchester Oct 19/29; true 28°F hard-freeze runs ~10–20 days later.
Off-season cleanup only — nest is empty and can be knocked down without risk
The colony is dead and the nest will never be reused. Safe to remove the abandoned comb at any time. If the attachment site (a south-facing eave, a grill hood) is left in place, a new foundress may build there again next May — consider painting or waxing the surface to discourage reattachment.
Industry-survey cost estimates. Diameters are visual approximations of homeowner-relatable analogies — not field measurements.
Where wasps nest in NH
eave nest
Northern paper wasp (Polistes fuscatus) and European paper wasp (Polistes dominula)
Where: Under eaves, soffits, porch ceilings, deck rails, door frames, grill interiors, playset uprights, sheds, mailboxes — any sheltered horizontal or angled surface with some protection from rain
Spot it: Scout from 20-plus feet in daylight — a sunny mid-morning when workers come and go is the best time. Look for a small gray-brown disc or umbrella shape on a single thin stalk, with honeycomb cells facing down. No outer shell. Open cells visible. Some cells may be capped white (pupae). Nest ranges from pea-sized in May to small-plate-sized by August. European paper wasps (orange antennae) also nest inside grill hoods and enclosed cavities — lift the grill lid and check before lighting.
The most common visible stinging-insect nest in southern NH. Native northern paper wasp favors sheltered wood — old cedar shingles, barn rafters, unpainted soffits. The European paper wasp is increasingly the species found on Manchester and Nashua structures and inside outdoor appliances. Both species produce the same open umbrella comb; the orange antennae and cavity-nesting location identify the European species.
aerial nest
Bald-faced hornet (Dolichovespula maculata) — an aerial yellowjacket, NOT a true hornet
Where: Tree branches, shrubs, eaves, and overhang surfaces — a gray football or teardrop hanging in the open with a single bottom entrance hole; fully enclosed, no cells visible
Spot it: A smooth, gray papier-mâché football or teardrop shape. No visible cells — the comb is completely wrapped. Single small entrance hole near the bottom. Up to basketball size by late summer. Can hold 400–700 workers. Often not noticed until leaves drop in fall.
This is the enclosed gray nest that homeowners sometimes mistake for a large paper wasp nest. It is not. The bald-faced hornet is taxonomically a yellowjacket (Dolichovespula), not a true hornet. Colonies are large and defend aggressively — workers can spray venom toward the eyes of intruders. Professional removal required. Cross-link to /bald-faced-hornet/ for depth.
cavity nest
Yellowjacket (Vespula maculifrons, V. germanica, or related species)
Where: Wall voids, attics, crawl spaces, underground in old rodent burrows or soil cavities — you see only a steady stream of wasps entering and exiting a gap or hole, with no visible nest structure
Spot it: No visible nest — only wasp traffic at an entry point: a gap in siding, a soffit crack, an electrical penetration, or a hole in the lawn. Multiple workers flying in and out of the same small opening, especially at midday. Concealed nests can reach thousands of workers by August.
Older Manchester, Concord, and southern NH homes with cedar-shingle siding, fieldstone foundations, or uninsulated wall cavities are prime sites. Never seal the entry point — trapped yellowjackets chew inward through drywall into living space. UMass Extension and Penn State Extension both warn against blocking the entrance. Professional dust treatment at the entry point is the correct approach.
mud tube nest
Black-and-yellow mud dauber (Sceliphron caementarium) and organ-pipe mud dauber (Trypoxylon politum, less common in NH)
Where: Sheltered walls, barn siding, eaves, shed interiors — smooth mud lumps the size of a lemon or fist, or parallel vertical tubes resembling a pipe organ
Spot it: Mud or clay construction — completely different texture from the chewed-wood-fiber paper of social wasps. Black-and-yellow mud dauber builds a compact rectangular mud mass, finished size roughly lemon-to-fist (Missouri Dept. of Conservation). Organ-pipe mud dauber builds distinctive parallel vertical mud tubes. Both are provisioned with paralyzed spiders — open an empty cell and you may find a spider inside.
HARMLESS SOLITARY WASP — a beneficial spider predator. Mud daubers almost never sting humans; UMD Extension: 'Mud dauber wasps are not aggressive.' Treatment is cleanup and exclusion only, never chemical. Empty nests can simply be scraped off the surface. A soft service bridge applies — no $399 removal recommended for solitary mud daubers.
soil burrow nest
Eastern cicada killer (Sphecius speciosus), great black wasp (Sphex pensylvanicus), digger wasps
Where: Sunny bare or sparsely vegetated soil — lawns, garden edges, gravel driveways, baseball infields, sandy banks — single round hole roughly ½ inch in diameter with a fan or mound of excavated soil at the entrance
Spot it: A single ½-inch hole with a distinctive U-shaped or fan-shaped mound of excavated soil around it (Oklahoma State Extension). Apply the UMD field test: a steady stream of wasps entering and exiting one hole = social/defensive (possible yellowjacket); a single large wasp returning periodically to its own hole with prey, and many such holes each with its own sole occupant = harmless solitary digger wasps.
HARMLESS SOLITARY WASPS — males cannot sting; females sting only if handled directly. The eastern cicada killer (present but uncommon in southern NH — recorded in Plaistow, NH) is the species most often panic-reported as a 'murder hornet.' It is not. The northern giant hornet (Vespa mandarinia) was declared eradicated from the entire United States on December 18, 2024. The large wasp flying low over your NH lawn in July or August is almost certainly a harmless cicada killer or great black wasp. Soft service bridge only — leave the burrows or thicken turf to discourage nesting.
- 1
Confirm the species before doing anything — a mud dauber nest or a cicada-killer burrow near the paper-wasp nest is harmless and needs no treatment; a paper wasp nest over foot traffic does. One look at the structure (open comb vs mud lumps vs soil hole) tells you which is which.
- 2
Scout in daylight from 20-plus feet away; watch the entry and exit traffic on a sunny mid-morning to confirm the nest is active and identify the species.
- 3
Act early when the nest is pea- or golf-ball size — a founding nest in May with a lone queen has no defenders; a colony at peak in August has dozens of workers and full alarm-pheromone response. The earlier you act, the safer and simpler the removal.
- 4
Paint, stain, or wax eaves, soffits, and door frames — slick, coated surfaces are harder for foundresses to attach a stalk to. UNH Extension recommends this as a passive deterrent for recurring attachment sites.
- 5
Call a licensed professional if you are allergic to wasp venom, if the nest is in an elevated or enclosed location, if it is inside a grill or wall cavity (European paper wasp), or if it has grown beyond golf-ball size. Anchor Pest Services removes paper wasp nests across southern and central NH under NH license #782664 (category F1, RSA 430, NHDAMF) for one flat $399, species confirmed first, NEPMA member.
Don't seal a soffit, eave crack, wall gap, or any cavity entry to trap workers inside
Why: Trapped workers chew inward through drywall, insulation, and interior walls to escape into living space. UMass Extension and Penn State Extension both explicitly warn against blocking a wasp or hornet colony entrance for this reason. The result — a wall full of agitated wasps emerging inside your kitchen or bedroom — is far worse than the original outdoor nest. Leave the entry open and treat from the outside with a licensed professional.
Don't use fire, fireworks, smoke bombs, or gasoline on or near a wasp nest
Why: Fire and explosion risk is severe, especially in garages and outbuildings where gasoline, petroleum products, and other flammables are stored. In Grand Blanc Township, Michigan (July 3, 2017), homeowner Mike Tingley used a smoke bomb on a wasp nest in his garage and burned the garage to the ground. Grand Blanc Fire Chief Robert Burdette told CBS News: 'Of course, it's the garage — there's gasolines, petroleum and fire products in there. It went up fast,' and advised: 'Call a professional.' This incident occurred in Michigan, not NH, but the fire physics are identical. UNH Extension's safe method is a labeled pressurized wasp spray applied after dark — not fire.
Don't pour boiling water on the nest
Why: Boiling water reaches only the outermost cells of the comb and does not penetrate deep enough to destroy the colony. The severe splash-back burn risk to the operator — who must hold a boiling pot overhead and directly above an open-faced colony — far exceeds any pest-control benefit. Workers disturbed by the heat will sting immediately and at close range.
Don't stand directly under or above the nest while spraying an aerosol
Why: Paper wasp nests face downward — the open cells point straight at the ground. Workers alarmed by a spray drop directly onto whoever is standing beneath the nest. UNH Extension specifically advises standing to the side, not underneath, when treating a paper wasp nest. Stand at an angle; retreat immediately; never reach overhead.
Don't use a shop vacuum to suck out the nest or workers
Why: A shop vacuum leaves you holding a canister full of live, trapped, extremely agitated wasps with no way to safely empty it. Workers that are not immediately killed by the suction will be stinging anything they can reach inside the canister — and the moment you open it, they emerge. This approach has no meaningful end-state.
Don't rely on fake-nest paper-bag decoys or peppermint-oil sprays as a substitute for removing an active nest
Why: Controlled scientific evidence for paper-bag decoys (the 'fake nest' territorial-deterrent premise) is weak to absent. Essential-oil sprays show limited and short-lived deterrent effect in lab conditions but no durable real-world control on an active nest. While the colony keeps growing through August, spending weeks on ineffective decoys and sprays delays the lower-risk, earlier removal window and leaves a larger, more defensive colony to deal with later.
Don't assume 'they'll die after stinging, so I only have to worry about one sting'
Why: That is true only of honey bees, whose barbed stinger tears loose and kills them. Paper wasps have a smooth, unbarbed stinger and can sting repeatedly — the same individual can sting multiple times, and a disturbed colony releases alarm pheromones that recruit additional workers to the defense. A colony of 20-plus workers stinging at Schmidt 3.0 each is a medical emergency for anyone with a venom allergy. See /wasp-species/do-wasps-die-after-stinging for the full explanation.
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