How fast do carpenter ants destroy a house in New Hampshire?

Carpenter ants do not destroy a house quickly — the process unfolds over 3–6 years before most homeowners notice meaningful damage. In Year 1, the colony of 10–20 workers excavates a single chamber with no structural consequence [1][2]. By Year 3, 500–2,000 workers have damaged 0.5–2 linear feet of one structural member, requiring localized wood replacement. Year 5+ colonies of 2,000–6,000+ workers can compromise load-bearing sill plates, joists, or rafters, with documented NH cases requiring major structural repair [2]. The slow pace is precisely why colonies go undetected until Year 3 or later — and why the discovery of frass should trigger immediate inspection rather than a 'wait and see' response.

What does carpenter ant damage actually look like vs termite damage?

The diagnostic difference is unambiguous when you know what to look for. Carpenter ant galleries have smooth, sanded, polished walls with clean interiors — no mud, no packing material — and they cross the wood grain freely [1][2]. Termite galleries (subterranean termites, *Reticulitermes flavipes*, are the only NH termite) have rough, mud-packed, fecal-lined walls and run almost exclusively with the grain [1][3]. On the surface, carpenter ants produce coarse fibrous frass piles with visible insect parts below slit-like 2–3 mm kickout holes [2]. Termites produce mud shelter tubes on foundations and leave no external frass. If you see a pile of material that looks like coarse sawdust mixed with small dark specks, you almost certainly have carpenter ants, not termites.

How much repair does carpenter ant damage require?

Repair scope depends entirely on when the infestation is discovered and treated. Year 1–2 discovery: typically cosmetic patching of a small sill or casing section. Year 3 discovery: replacement of one or two window/door casings, studs, or a partial sill plate, including drywall patch and paint. Year 5+ discovery: major structural repairs that can involve multiple joists or load-bearing walls, with documented cases in NH and neighboring states [2]. At the severe end this may mean sistering or replacing a joist, or replacing load-bearing wall studs. Get a written quote from a licensed contractor, since scope varies widely by access and extent. None of these repairs are covered by standard homeowners insurance, which classifies carpenter ant damage as preventable maintenance failure [2][6].

Does homeowners insurance cover carpenter ant damage in NH?

No — standard NH homeowners insurance policies do not cover carpenter ant structural damage [2][6]. Insurers classify this as preventable maintenance failure because carpenter ants require moisture-damaged wood to nest, and moisture management is a homeowner responsibility under standard policy terms. This applies to both the pest treatment and the structural repair. The implication is that the entire financial burden of discovery, treatment, and repair falls on the homeowner — which makes early detection critical. An inexpensive Year-1 treatment that prevents costly Year-5 structural repairs is pure savings that insurance would never have covered anyway.

How long until carpenter ant damage becomes structural?

Structural consequence — measurably reduced load-bearing capacity — typically begins when a mature colony (2,000+ workers, Year 3–5+) has excavated gallery networks occupying a significant fraction of a member's cross-sectional area [2]. A single joist or sill plate can sustain some gallery volume without immediate failure, but the process is cumulative and irreversible. The UNH Extension photograph of a barn support beam with galleries occupying the majority of the beam's interior cross-section illustrates the end-state of a multi-year untreated infestation [1]. In NH's older balloon-framed homes, where sill plates and rim joists are already undersized by modern standards, the threshold for structural concern arrives earlier than in newer platform-framed construction [3].

Can a carpenter ant colony destroy a load-bearing beam?

Yes, over time, a large mature colony can substantially compromise a load-bearing member [1][2]. UNH Extension documents this outcome with a photograph of a barn support beam in which carpenter ant galleries occupy the majority of the beam's interior cross-section (Eaton & Maccini 2016) [1]. The mechanism is cumulative: each season, workers extend gallery networks into adjacent sound wood as the moisture-softened zone expands. A colony of 2,000–6,000+ workers excavating for 5+ years can hollow out significant portions of a main carrying beam, ridge board, or primary joist. If you hear rustling inside a load-bearing member, probe it with a screwdriver. A blade that sinks easily into a structural beam with smooth gallery walls is a same-day call to a licensed pest control operator and a licensed contractor.

What's the cheapest way to stop carpenter ant damage early?

The cheapest intervention is finding and eliminating the moisture source before the colony establishes or while it's still young (Year 1–2) [2]. Fix the roof leak, repair the gutter, address the plumbing drip, or correct the ice-dam condition that is raising the wood moisture content above 15%. A one-time non-repellent perimeter treatment in Year 1 is inexpensive relative to later repair. DIY abamectin protein granule bait (Advance 375A) achieves colony elimination in 2–3 weeks at a 55% field success rate [6]. The key limitation is that DIY without finding the parent nest reliably underperforms — Hansen (2008) documents 55% field success versus >95% lab success, with the gap explained entirely by failure to locate the parent colony [6].

Do I have to replace damaged wood after treatment, or will it stabilize?

Structurally non-critical wood with limited gallery damage — a window casing, door trim, or a small section of fascia — may be left in place after confirmed colony elimination and monitored annually for recurrence, provided the underlying moisture source is corrected [2][6]. However, any load-bearing member (joist, sill plate, main beam, rafter, header) with significant gallery volume should be assessed by a licensed contractor and may require sistering, partial replacement, or full replacement [2]. Treatment stops new damage; it does not reverse existing gallery volume or restore structural integrity. The sequence is: (1) treat and confirm colony elimination, (2) fix moisture, (3) wait 30 days to confirm no re-infestation, (4) have a contractor assess structural impact, (5) repair what the assessment indicates [2][6].

Daniel Brady · NH-Licensed Pesticide Applicator · License #782664

|Reviewed by Daniel Brady

Carpenter Ant Damage: Year-by-Year Timeline and What It Actually Looks Like

Slow to start, severe if ignored past Year 3

Carpenter ant damage escalates along a predictable four-stage timeline tied directly to colony growth. In Year 1, a founding queen and 10–20 workers excavate a single chamber the size of a quarter — no visible signs, no repair needed. By Year 3, 500–2,000 workers have created gallery networks in 0.5–2 linear feet of structural wood, requiring localized wood repair. By Year 5+, mature colonies of 2,000–6,000+ workers can structurally compromise sill plates, joists, and rafters in NH older homes. Because repair scope grows with the colony, early intervention costs far less than structural repair — making Year-1 action the cheapest option.

At a Glance

Short Answer: Minimal in Year 1, moderate by Year 3, and potentially structural by Year 5+ — the colony clock is running from day one
Key Fact: Homeowners who treat in Year 1 spend a fraction of what late-stage structural repair costs — early intervention is far cheaper than waiting until Year 5+
NH Relevance: NH's ~22% pre-1950 housing stock, chronic ice-dam moisture, and 84% forest cover make carpenter ants the #1 wood-destroying insect in the state
Action Needed: Find the frass pile, date it with painter's tape, and schedule inspection within 14 days — every additional season compounds the repair bill

The honest answer

The short of it

The verdict

Slow to start, severe if ignored past Year 3

Carpenter ant damage is essentially invisible and easy to stop in Year 1, but compounds dramatically with every passing season. A colony of 10–20 workers in Year 1 excavates a chamber the size of a quarter with zero structural consequence. That same colony at Year 5+ numbers 2,000–6,000+ workers, has produced 200–400 swarmers, and may have compromised multiple joists, sill plates, or rafters. Because early intervention costs far less than structural repair, early action is the cheapest option by a wide margin.

Key Statistics

Carpenter Ant Damage: Year-by-Year Timeline and What It Actually Looks Like — The Numbers

200–400

Swarmers produced yearly (Year 5+)

Up to 20

Satellite nests in a mature colony

2,000–6,000+

Workers in mature colony (Year 5+)

3–6 yrs

Time to damaging colony

Deep Dive

The full picture

Carpenter ant damage in NH wood-frame homes follows a predictable biological timeline driven by colony growth. The key insight from UNH Cooperative Extension and from Hansen & Klotz (2005) is that the damage is entirely preventable in Year 1 and 2, manageable in Year 3, and potentially structural in Year 5+ — with repair scope escalating sharply for every year of delay 12. The biology is straightforward: Camponotus pennsylvanicus, NH's dominant structural pest carpenter ant, grows from a single queen in Year 1 to 2,000–6,000+ workers by Year 5+, each cohort excavating more wood and establishing more satellite nests within the structure.

What Carpenter Ants Actually Do to Wood (and Why They Do It)

Carpenter ants excavate wood to nest — they do not eat it.

They lack the cellulose-digesting enzymes that termites use to consume wood 14. Instead, workers use triangular mandibles bearing 5–7 teeth to mechanically scrape and excavate galleries, ejecting the waste as frass through slit-like kickout openings 2. The excavated wood must go somewhere, which is why frass piles exist at all. Gallery walls are smooth, polished, and clean — no mud, no fecal packing — because the ants are not consuming the wood matrix, only removing it 13. This mechanism is clinically diagnostic: carpenter ant galleries cross the wood grain and have clean walls; termite galleries run with the grain and are mud-packed 12.

The Moisture Connection: Why Damage Always Starts at a Leak

Carpenter ant queens do not select wood randomly.

Every established nest traces to a specific moisture defect — a roof leak, ice dam, plumbing drip, gutter overflow, flashing failure, or condensation problem. Wood at moisture content above 15% is the threshold above which excavation becomes practical; below 15%, wood is too hard and dry for efficient gallery construction 24. This is why finding the nest means finding the moisture source, and why treatment without moisture remediation reliably fails — the colony will simply re-expand into the next wet section of wood 26. In NH, ice-dam-driven eave moisture is the single biggest structural risk factor, particularly in homes built before 2005 when ice-barrier underlayment was not yet standard 3.

Year-by-Year Structural Impact: From Quarter-Sized Chamber to Compromised Joist

Colony development drives damage progression.

In Year 1, a mated queen establishes a claustral cell in moist wood and produces 10–20 workers from her own body reserves — no external signs, no repair needed 12. In Year 2, 30–200 workers produce the first frass piles and kickout slits; repair is minor cosmetic patching if discovered. By Year 3, 500–2,000 workers have excavated 0.5–2 linear feet of one structural member and begun establishing satellite nests, requiring localized wood replacement 2. At Year 5+, colonies of 2,000–6,000+ workers have compromised multiple structural members, produce 200–400 swarmers annually, and can require major structural repair — with documented cases in older NH homes 2.

The Frass Diagnostic: How to Confirm Active Damage

Frass is the single most reliable damage diagnostic for carpenter ants.

Sweep a pile and mark the date with painter's tape: if the pile re-forms within 72 hours, the nest is active 2. Under a 10× lens, carpenter ant frass contains visible insect body parts — legs, head capsules, pupal-casing fragments — mixed with coarse wood shavings that are pale tan (fresh pine) to dark brown (decayed or painted wood) 24. This biological debris is the critical separator from construction sawdust (clean, uniform, no animal material), powderpost beetle frass (fine flour-like dust, round holes), and subterranean termite frass (no external piles at all — termites pack frass into mud galleries) 23.

Kickout Holes: Size and Shape Tell the Story

Carpenter ant kickout openings are slit-like, irregular, and approximately 2–3 mm wide — sized just larger than a major worker's head capsule 2.

They are never perfectly round. Perfectly round holes signal powderpost beetles (0.8–1.6 mm), anobiid beetles (1.6–3.2 mm), or (rarely in NH) drywood termites (<2 mm) 23. Old-house borer exit holes are much larger (6–10 mm), oval, and ragged. The combination of slit-shaped opening plus coarse fibrous frass with insect parts below is the signature that uniquely identifies carpenter ants among NH wood-destroying organisms 2.

Insurance, Liability, and the Cost of Delay

Standard NH homeowners insurance classifies carpenter ant damage as preventable maintenance failure and does not cover repair costs 26.

This makes the cost of delay personal and direct: early intervention in Year 1 costs far less than the structural repair a Year 5+ infestation can require, because repair scope grows with the colony every season. A quarterly prevention plan spread over several years runs roughly the same as a single reactive treatment plus repair once damage has set in, while preventing structural damage entirely. The most expensive decision is consistently 'I'll deal with it next spring'.

Gallery Morphology: What an Inspector Actually Sees

When suspect wood is probed with a screwdriver, a carpenter ant gallery has immediately recognizable characteristics.

The blade sinks easily into excavated channels with clean, sanded, polished walls. Galleries cross the wood grain — following the softer springwood (earlywood) but passing through summerwood (latewood) to extend the network 2. There is no mud, no soil packing, no fecal lining. The only contents are ants, brood, and unswept frass 12. Tunnel cross-section in typical NH softwood framing is flattened-oval, approximately 5–10 mm wide by 2–4 mm tall; brood chambers are larger, up to 25–50 mm across in mature colonies 2. Comparing this with termite damage — rough, mud-packed, with-grain galleries — resolves any doubt about which organism is responsible 123.

NH-Specific Risk Factors That Accelerate Damage

NH's housing stock amplifies structural risk in several documented ways.

The ~22% of NH homes pre-dating 1950 are disproportionately balloon-framed, meaning stud cavities run uninterrupted from sill to roof — providing vertical highways for carpenter ant satellite nests and unusually difficult access for spot treatment 3. Pre-1985 homes almost universally lack modern moisture barriers, continuous ice-shield underlayment, and pressure-treated sill plates 3. NH's climate warming trend of +3°F since 1901 is extending the active foraging season and increasing overwintering survival in marginally heated wall voids 3. And NH's 84% forest cover — second-most-forested state in the U.S. — means virtually every residential property is within foraging distance of established parent colonies in standing dead beech, maple, hemlock, or white pine 3.

Bottom line — Carpenter ant damage is slow enough to catch and inexpensive to stop in the early years, and costly enough to motivate early action — if homeowners understand the timeline. Because early intervention costs far less than structural repair, acting in Year 1 is the single most consequential decision in this equation.

Damage Progression

What carpenter ants do to a home over time

Carpenter ant colony growth is slow but relentless. These four stages use canonical colony-size data from NC State Extension (Crawley & Hayes 2023), with repair scope described qualitatively — the extent of wood work grows at each stage.

MinimalYear 1

Colony Size

~10–20 workers

Damage Extent

Single excavated chamber the size of a quarter — entirely concealed, no external signs

Repair Scope

No repair needed

A mated dealate queen has located moisture-damaged wood (>15% moisture content) and sealed herself inside a claustral cell, metabolizing her dissolved flight muscles to feed her first brood [1]. The chamber is the size of a quarter to a deck of cards. There is no frass, no kickout hole, no visual or auditory sign. Detection at Year 1 is essentially accidental — typically discovered only during construction or repair work. No repair is needed because the structural consequence is negligible. The single most important action at this stage is identifying and eliminating the moisture source before the colony multiplies [2].

Self-Assessment Tool

How urgent is your situation?

Answer three questions to determine your urgency tier — MONITOR, TREAT SOON, or EMERGENCY — based on the p2 §8 three-tier scoring system used by NH pest professionals.

Have you found frass (coarse sawdust mixed with insect parts) OR seen winged ants indoors?

When have you seen ants, and have you heard rustling sounds inside walls at night?

Have you probed suspect wood near ant activity? What did you find?

NH Risk Heat Map

Carpenter ant pressure by NH county

Carpenter ant pressure across NH's five service counties reflects the interaction of housing age, forest-edge proximity, and moisture exposure. All ratings below are based on county housing stock data (US Census ACS), forest cover analysis (USDA FS NRS-119), and pest-industry field experience across southern NH.

Low

Moderate

High

Extreme

Hillsborough County

Extreme

Largest absolute service volume in NH (179,933 housing units). Manchester's pre-1940 balloon-framed mill housing and Nashua's pre-1960 stock combine with extensive deciduous forest borders in Bedford, Goffstown, and Amherst. HIGH-to-EXTREME carpenter ant pressure with the state's highest total case volume.

Rockingham County

Extreme

Portsmouth's 18th–19th century clapboard housing on tidal moisture is the oldest dense stock in the state and represents extreme per-property risk. Salem, Derry, and Londonderry carry HIGH pressure. The Atlantic coast strip (Zone 6b) has the longest annual foraging window in NH.

Merrimack County

High

Concord's downtown and South End have extensive pre-1940 wood-framed stock. Surrounding rural towns (Henniker, Warner, Loudon) sit at classic forest-edge interfaces with smaller homes and less frequent inspection. Median construction year 1979.

Strafford County

High

Dover and Rochester have substantial pre-1940 mill-era stock; ~22% of Strafford County homes pre-date 1950. UNH-Durham proximity means academic literature directly reflects local species pressure. Carpenter ant complaint volume mirrors the Merrimack County pattern.

Cheshire County

High

Cheshire's oldest-in-region median build year (1973) means more untreated, moisture-exposed framing — the wood carpenter ants excavate fastest — so the per-home structural damage risk runs as high here as in far more populous Hillsborough. Monadnock Pest & Wildlife publicly identifies carpenter ants as the most prolific household pest in the Keene region.

Bottom line — No NH service county falls below HIGH carpenter ant pressure. Homes built before 1985, within 100 m of a forest edge, or with any history of ice-dam or plumbing moisture are at elevated risk regardless of county.

Visual Identification

What Carpenter Ant Damage Actually Looks Like

These four images represent the diagnostic evidence NH homeowners are most likely to encounter, from the earliest detectable sign through active structural damage.

Sign 1

Frass Pile Below a Kickout Slit

A coarse, fibrous pile — pencil-sharpener shavings, not powder — accumulates directly below a slit-like 2–3 mm opening in wood trim or a sill plate. Under a 10× lens, dark insect-body fragments (legs, head capsules, pupal-casing remnants) are visible mixed into the pale wood shavings. If this pile re-forms within 72 hours of sweeping, the nest is active.

Sign 2

Slit-Like Kickout Hole (2–3 mm)

Carpenter ant kickout openings are irregular and slit-shaped — not round. The hole is just large enough for a major worker (~3 mm head capsule) to eject excavated material. Perfectly round holes indicate beetles or (outside NH) drywood termites. The fibrous, slightly torn edges of the opening distinguish it from drilled or punched holes.

Sign 3

Smooth Cross-Grain Gallery Network

When suspect wood is probed and opened, carpenter ant galleries are immediately recognizable: smooth, polished, and 'sandpapered' walls with clean interiors. Galleries cross the wood grain freely — unlike termite galleries, which run almost exclusively with the grain and are packed with mud and fecal material. The UNH Extension cross-section photograph of a barn support beam shows galleries occupying the majority of the beam's interior.

Sign 4

Joist with Active Gallery Exposed During Repair

At Year 5+, gallery networks in mature colonies can occupy multiple linear feet of a single joist, sill plate, or rafter. The exposed interior shows interconnected chambers and tunnels with clean, sanded walls — evidence of thousands of workers over several seasons. Load-bearing capacity is measurably reduced when gallery volume exceeds roughly 40% of the member's cross-sectional area.

Treatment Effectiveness

How long does each method actually last?

DIY repellent perimeter spray (bifenthrin/permethrin)

Low DIY cost · DIY

30–90 days knockdown, no colony kill

Kills surface foragers but does not reach the nest. Repellent action can scatter the colony into new satellite sites, worsening the long-term problem. Not recommended as a primary tool for carpenter ants.

DIY indoxacarb gel (Advion, 0.05%)

Low DIY cost · DIY

7–14 days to colony reduction if bait accepted

Best DIY option; non-repellent, trophallactically transferred. Hansen (2008) ICUP field trials: 55% colony-elimination success rate in field conditions vs. >95% in lab. Acceptance drops during protein-feeding phase in spring.

DIY abamectin protein granule (Advance 375A, 0.011%)

Low DIY cost · DIY

2–3 weeks to colony collapse; reapply every 30–60 days

Protein matrix matches carpenter ant spring feeding preference. Colony elimination in 2–3 weeks per manufacturer data consistent with Hansen (2008) field trials. Inactivated by rain; not suitable for indoor use.

Professional targeted nest injection (deltamethrin dust / fipronil foam)

Add-on to perimeter treatment · Professional

Permanent nest kill when queen is reached; 6–12 month residual

80–95% colony elimination in a single visit when parent nest is correctly located. Hansen & Klotz (2005): locating the nest is the single biggest predictor of treatment success. Required for any Year 3+ infestation.

Professional non-repellent perimeter — fipronil 0.06% (Termidor SC / Taurus SC)

One-time professional treatment · Professional

90-day ant control residual; transfer effect eliminates foragers carrying product back to nest

BASF documents colony collapse within 90 days via transfer effect. Non-repellent — ants cannot detect it. Covers outdoor parent colony and perimeter entry points. Must be combined with void injection for confirmed indoor satellite nests.

Annual quarterly IPM plan (4 visits + free re-service)

Annual plan · Professional

Continuous year-round protection

Over 5 years, an annual plan costs roughly the same as a single Year-3 reactive treatment plus repair, while preventing structural damage entirely. Industry re-infestation rate: <5% on quarterly plans vs. 10–20% on single one-time treatments.

Prevention Playbook

How to keep ants from coming back

Eliminate moisture first: repair roof leaks, extend downspouts 4+ feet from the foundation, and install gutters that drain away from the structure — UNH Extension identifies moisture elimination as the single most consequential prevention measure, since carpenter ants almost exclusively colonize wood above 15% moisture content.

Store firewood off the ground on a concrete or gravel pad, away from the house — woodpiles are one of the most common parent-colony origin sites for NH residential infestations, and each piece of firewood brought inside can transport workers or queens.

Remove tree stumps within 30 m of the house within one to two seasons of tree felling — UNH Extension explicitly lists stump removal as a primary prevention measure, since decay-class 2–3 stumps are the preferred parent-nest substrate for Camponotus pennsylvanicus queens.

Trim all branches, vines, and shrubs to maintain a minimum 18-inch gap between vegetation and the house — each branch touching the exterior is a bridge that bypasses perimeter insecticide treatment.

Inspect sill plates, rim joists, and porch columns annually with a flat-blade screwdriver and flashlight, looking for frass, soft wood, or slit-like openings — these are the top two indoor nest sites in NH and are most accessible in unfinished basements.

Maintain roof gutters and ensure attic ventilation is adequate — ice-dam-driven eave and rafter moisture is the single biggest predictor of structural carpenter ant infestation in NH homes built before 2005, when ice-barrier underlayment became standard under the IRC.

Found frass or suspect damage?

A licensed NH inspector can locate the parent colony and map the full gallery extent — before repair costs compound another season.

Schedule free inspection (603) 785-0118

Local Context

Why NH Homes Are Especially Vulnerable to Carpenter Ant Damage

New Hampshire's combination of 84% forest cover, a climate averaging 44 inches of annual precipitation, and a housing stock where roughly 22% of homes pre-date 1950 creates near-ideal conditions for carpenter ant structural damage. Older homes pre-date modern moisture barriers, continuous ice-shield underlayment, and pressure-treated sill plates — leaving untreated wood in direct moisture contact. The warming trend of +3°F since 1901 (Lemcke-Stampone et al. 2022, NH Climate Assessment) is extending the annual foraging season and increasing winter survival in marginally heated wall voids.

Key Local Data

Damage risk scales with framing age: in Cheshire County — the oldest median build year (1973) of the five service counties — 27.3% of homes predate 1940 and the moisture barriers that slow excavation, so per-home structural damage risk matches more populous Hillsborough despite lower call volume (US Census ACS, Point2Homes 2024).

Common Questions

Frequently asked questions

Sources & References

Where this data comes from

Written & reviewed by

Verified

Daniel Brady

NH-Licensed Pesticide Applicator · License #782664 (NHDAMF, RSA 430)

Daniel Brady is the New Hampshire–licensed applicator behind Anchor Pest Services, a family-owned pest control company serving the Manchester area since 2017.

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Keep Exploring

Carpenter Ant Damage: Year-by-Year Timeline and What It Actually Looks Like

The short of it

Carpenter Ant Damage: Year-by-Year Timeline and What It Actually Looks Like — The Numbers

The full picture

What Carpenter Ants Actually Do to Wood (and Why They Do It)

The Moisture Connection: Why Damage Always Starts at a Leak

Year-by-Year Structural Impact: From Quarter-Sized Chamber to Compromised Joist

The Frass Diagnostic: How to Confirm Active Damage

Kickout Holes: Size and Shape Tell the Story

Insurance, Liability, and the Cost of Delay

Gallery Morphology: What an Inspector Actually Sees

NH-Specific Risk Factors That Accelerate Damage

What carpenter ants do to a home over time

How urgent is your situation?

Have you found frass (coarse sawdust mixed with insect parts) OR seen winged ants indoors?

When have you seen ants, and have you heard rustling sounds inside walls at night?

Have you probed suspect wood near ant activity? What did you find?

Carpenter ant pressure by NH county

Hillsborough County

Rockingham County

Merrimack County

Strafford County

Cheshire County

What Carpenter Ant Damage Actually Looks Like

Frass Pile Below a Kickout Slit

Slit-Like Kickout Hole (2–3 mm)

Smooth Cross-Grain Gallery Network

Joist with Active Gallery Exposed During Repair

How long does each method actually last?

How to keep ants from coming back

Found frass or suspect damage?

Why NH Homes Are Especially Vulnerable to Carpenter Ant Damage

Frequently asked questions

How fast do carpenter ants destroy a house in New Hampshire?

What does carpenter ant damage actually look like vs termite damage?

How much repair does carpenter ant damage require?

Does homeowners insurance cover carpenter ant damage in NH?

How long until carpenter ant damage becomes structural?

Can a carpenter ant colony destroy a load-bearing beam?

What's the cheapest way to stop carpenter ant damage early?

Do I have to replace damaged wood after treatment, or will it stabilize?

Where this data comes from

Stop the Damage Clock Today

Your next step

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Do Carpenter Ants Eat Wood? (No — Here's What They Actually Do)

Drywall Signs of Carpenter Ants: Pinholes, Stains, and What's Behind the Wall

Carpenter Ants vs Termites: Damage, Identification, and Which One You Have

What are the signs of carpenter ants in your house?

Carpenter Ant — Quick ID for New Hampshire Homeowners