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Groundhog — species photo
Daniel Brady · NH-Licensed Pesticide Applicator · License #782664

How to Get Rid of Groundhogs

Doable with care
The durable groundhog fix is an exclusion fence with a buried L-shaped footer: build it 3 to 4 feet tall from galvanized wire mesh (½-inch openings to exclude juveniles), bury the bottom 10 to 12 inches, and bend the lower 6 to 12 inches outward into an L so a digging groundhog hits a horizontal shelf and gives up. Leave the top 15 inches or so unattached, or bent outward about 45 degrees, so a climbing groundhog wobbles and falls back rather than reaching the top. Removing brush and woodpile harborage discourages burrow re-use, while repellents and scare devices are largely ineffective. Live trapping is legal but constrained by licensing and relocation rules in New Hampshire, so a correctly built fence outperforms trapping as a long-term solution. The best eviction window for an active burrow is mid- to late summer, after dependent young are independent and before hibernation weight-gain begins.

At a glance

  • Difficulty: Intermediate
  • Time: A weekend to build an exclusion fence around a garden
  • Cost: Low to moderate — wire mesh, posts, stakes
  • Success: Good with a correctly built L-footer fence; poor with a standard fence lacking a buried, angled base
The honest answer

Can you DIY Groundhog?

The verdict on Groundhog DIY

Doable with careIntermediate

A buried, angled fence is the real fix — and it's a genuinely doable weekend project.

Groundhogs (woodchucks) are chiefly a burrowing and garden nuisance with low direct health risk. The one design detail that determines success is a buried L-shaped footer — a fence without one just gets tunneled under. In New Hampshire, trapping outside season requires Level I Wildlife Control Operator licensing and relocation is restricted, so exclusion fencing is the more durable, legal DIY path than trap-and-relocate.

The playbook

The 5 DIY methods — honestly graded

Every approach graded for this species, in IPM order — prevention first, chemistry late. Pick a method to see how it works, the steps, and what it actually takes.

Prevention / Exclusion

Works well

The single most effective method — but only with a buried L-footer; a standard fence without one gets tunneled under.

Groundhogs are prolific diggers that will simply tunnel beneath a standard fence. A buried, outward-angled footer creates an underground shelf that a digging animal hits and can't dig past, while an unattached or outward-angled top defeats climbers.

Best for: Protecting a garden or specific area long-term

  1. Build the fence with a buried L-footer

    Use galvanized wire mesh, ½-inch openings to exclude juveniles, 3 to 4 feet tall. Bury the bottom 10 to 12 inches and bend the lower 6 to 12 inches outward into an L-shaped footer.

  2. Defeat climbers at the top

    Leave the top ~15 inches of fence unattached to posts, or bent outward at roughly a 45-degree angle, so a climbing groundhog wobbles and falls back rather than reaching over.

    Tip
    Add a buried apron or threshold under any gates — gates are the weak point diggers exploit first.

Tools & materials

Galvanized welded wire or hardware clothFence postsStakesZip ties
Before you start
Skipping the buried L-footer is the single most common reason DIY groundhog fencing fails.
Reality check

Why DIY falls short here

Not scare tactics — the specific, proportionate reasons a home attempt can stall for this species.

Prolific digging

A fence without a buried L-footer is simply tunneled under — this is the single most common DIY groundhog-fence failure.

Dependent young in spring/early summer

Premature eviction of a burrow during this window orphans pups that can't yet fend for themselves.

Multiple burrow entrances

Sealing one visible entrance leaves other active exits open, so the burrow system stays functional.

Straight talk

How risky is it, really?

An honest read — most nuisance species are genuinely low risk, and we say so.

Low risk

Groundhogs are chiefly a burrowing and garden nuisance, not a health threat. The genuine costs are structural (undermined sheds, decks, and foundations) and garden crop loss — direct disease risk to people is minimal.

  • Burrow undermining of sheds, decks, patios, and foundationsCommon

    The primary real-world cost of groundhog activity — a structural, not health, concern

    UNH Cooperative Extension

  • Garden crop lossCommon

    Groundhogs feed heavily on garden vegetables and can quickly damage a vegetable garden

    UNH Cooperative Extension

  • Bites from a cornered/handled groundhogRare

    Per NH DHHS, bites from large rodents should prompt a rabies consultation, though confirmed rabid groundhogs are uncommon

    NH DHHS

When to call a pro

Ready for a Groundhog Fence That Actually Holds?

Anchor Pest Services builds correctly-designed exclusion fencing and handles burrow closure across southern and central New Hampshire. Family-owned since 2017, NH license #782664.

Call a pro when…

  • Burrowing that's undermining a structure's foundation
  • An active burrow under a deck or shed you need addressed on a shorter timeline
  • You want current NH trapping/relocation rules navigated for you

General Pest Control

A single garden-protection fence is a solid DIY project. Call a pro if burrowing is undermining a foundation, shed, or deck directly, or if you'd rather have exclusion fencing and burrow closure done for you.

Keep them out

  • Build exclusion fencing with a buried, outward-angled L-footer
  • Remove brush and woodpile harborage near burrow entrances
  • Time any burrow closure for mid- to late summer, after young are independent
New Hampshire context

Groundhogs in New Hampshire

In New Hampshire, groundhogs emerge from hibernation in early spring, raise young through late spring into early summer, and spend late summer into fall building fat reserves for winter dormancy — which makes mid- to late summer (roughly July through September) the best window to close an active burrow, after young are independent but before the heavy pre-hibernation feeding period.

Peak season

Active spring through fall; hibernates through winter

Before you treat

Make sure it's a Groundhog

Two quick detours worth taking — confirm the ID, then learn what drew it in so it doesn't come back.

Common questions

Frequently asked

Sources & further reading(3)
  1. [1]
    UNH Cooperative Extension — Dealing with Woodchuck Damage

    NH-specific groundhog exclusion fencing design and timing

    extensionverified 2026-07-13
  2. [2]
    NH Fish & Game — Nuisance Wildlife / Wildlife Control Operators

    Level I WCO licensing and relocation constraints

    govverified 2026-07-13
  3. [3]
    NH DHHS — Rabies and Animal Bites

    Bite-related rabies consultation guidance for large rodents

    govverified 2026-07-13

Written & reviewed by

Verified

Daniel Brady

NH-Licensed Pesticide Applicator · License #782664 (NHDAMF, RSA 430)

Daniel Brady is the New Hampshire–licensed applicator behind Anchor Pest Services, a family-owned pest control company serving the Manchester area since 2017.

Verify license

Last updated July 2026

More in Wildlife & Birds

Other species you can tackle

Same category — the dot shows each one's DIY verdict at a glance (green = friendly, amber = doable with care, red = call a pro).

Professional Pest Control

Ready for a Groundhog Fence That Actually Holds?

Anchor Pest Services builds correctly-designed exclusion fencing and handles burrow closure across southern and central New Hampshire. Family-owned since 2017, NH license #782664.

  • Correctly-designed L-footer exclusion
  • NH-licensed technicians (#782664)
  • Free inspection — same-day service across southern NH

NH License #782664 · No obligation · We answer in person