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Pest damage evidence — a gnawed structural beam and a chewed electrical wire
Daniel Brady · NH-Licensed Pesticide Applicator · License #782664
Reviewed by Daniel Brady

Can moles ruin lawns and gardens?

Cosmetic — turf disruption, not plant destruction
No, not in the way most people assume. Moles are insectivores — their diet is dominated by earthworms, with grubs and other soil invertebrates making up the rest — so they are not eating your plants, bulbs, or roots. What they actually cause is cosmetic: raised surface tunnels and volcano-shaped mounds that disfigure a lawn and can occasionally heave a shallow-rooted seedling out of the ground. If something is genuinely eating roots or bulbs in your yard, the far more likely culprit is a vole — a different animal with a completely different diet.

At a glance

  • Can it?: No
  • How common: Routine
  • Hype: Wildly overstated
  • Evidence: Debunked
  • up to 70%

    Reduction in earthworm populations some grub insecticides can cause — the wrong tool for moles, which eat earthworms not grubs

    University of Missouri Extension, G9440 — Controlling Nuisance Moles

The honest answer

The short of it

The verdict
Cosmetic — turf disruption, not plant destruction

No — moles are insectivores hunting earthworms and grubs, not your plants. The real damage is cosmetic tunneling and mounding, and the root-and-bulb loss people blame on moles is almost always a vole.

The correction

What they claim vs. what the evidence supports

One shared severity track, two markers. The span between them is the hype delta — named out loud.

The claim — moles eating garden plants and needing grub treatment to be controlled

That moles are lawn- and garden-destroyers that eat plant roots and bulbs, and that killing the grubs in your lawn will get rid of them.

Where the claim comes from: Lawn-care and pest-control marketing that sells a grub treatment as a mole cure, and general home-and-garden content that assumes any digging animal is eating your plants.

Severity, 0–100
Hype says65
20Evidence says
Hype delta45point gapDebunked
The evidence

Moles are insectivores whose diet is dominated by earthworms — they have no dietary interest in plant material at all. University of Missouri Extension is explicit that grub insecticides should not be used for mole control, and that any apparent drop in mole activity after such treatment comes only from depleting earthworms (which some grub products can reduce by up to 70%), not from removing the mole's actual food source. The real damage is cosmetic: tunneling and mounding disrupt turf appearance.

The gap

The tunnels and mounds are real and genuinely unsightly, but 'moles eat your garden' and 'treat the grubs to get rid of the moles' are both wrong — moles don't eat plants, and grub insecticide targets a food source moles barely rely on.

Correction
The claim
Moles eat plant roots and bulbs, and treating your lawn for grubs will eliminate them.
Why it is wrong
Moles are insectivores that feed overwhelmingly on earthworms, supplemented by grubs and other soil invertebrates — they have no mechanism or motivation to eat roots, bulbs, or bark. University of Missouri Extension states plainly that grub insecticides 'should not be used for mole control,' and that where mole activity does decline after such treatment, it's because the product depleted earthworms, not because it targeted what moles actually eat.
What is true instead
The tunneling and mounding moles create is cosmetic turf disruption, not plant destruction. If roots, bulbs, or bark are genuinely being eaten in a New Hampshire yard, the more likely culprit is a vole — an unrelated rodent that does eat plant material.
Source
University of Missouri Extension G9440; University of Missouri IPM
Damage assessment

What is actually harmed

Damage verdict
Cosmetic — turf disruption, not plant destruction
CosmeticCan it?No
The specimen
Pest
Hairy-tailed mole (Parascalops breweri) and star-nosed mole (Condylura cristata) — the two species found in New Hampshire
What is in question
Lawn turf and, incidentally, shallow-rooted seedlings
How common
Routine
Evidence
Well documented
Mechanism

Moles dig two kinds of tunnels: shallow surface runways used for daily foraging, which raise visible ridges in turf, and deeper permanent runs, which produce the volcano-shaped mounds of excavated soil people notice at the surface. Both are built purely to hunt earthworms and soil-dwelling grubs. A mole is not tunneling toward anything in your garden beds, and it has no biological reason to target a root or a bulb.

Actually at risk3
  • The smooth, even appearance of a lawn — raised ridges and surface mounds are essentially the entire visible damage
  • Shallow-rooted seedlings or small plants that happen to sit directly above an active tunnel and get incidentally heaved or dislodged
  • Mowing and foot safety on a heavily tunneled lawn — a maintenance nuisance, not a plant-health problem
Not at risk — despite the myth4
  • Plant roots, bulbs, and bark — moles do not eat plant material of any kind
  • Established shrubs and trees, whose deeper root systems sit well below shallow mole runs
  • Garden vegetables and ornamentals as a food source — nothing in a mole's diet involves them
  • Your home's foundation or any structure — moles stay in soil, not building materials
Worst realistic case
An extensively tunneled, bumpy lawn with multiple mounds that needs tamping down and reseeding in patches, plus a few heaved seedlings. That's a real lawn-repair job — it is not a destroyed garden, and it was never a plant-eating problem to begin with.

Assessed from: University of Missouri Extension G9440; University of Missouri IPM; Penn State Extension 'Moles'; Maine DACF GotPests 'Moles in Lawns' NH fact sheet

The compounding clock

Does it get worse if you ignore it?

Over time
Compounds slowly

Compounds slowly, and only cosmetically — a single mole can add many feet of tunnel a day, so the visual mess grows, but nothing is structurally or biologically degrading.

The timeline
3 stages
  1. DaysReversible

    A single mole extends its shallow foraging tunnels, raising fresh ridges across the lawn as it hunts earthworms just below the surface.

  2. WeeksReversible

    Deeper permanent runs develop, producing recurring volcano-shaped mounds at the surface, and the tunneled area of the lawn visibly expands.

  3. MonthsReversible

    An extensively tunneled lawn becomes bumpy and uneven, and new moles can move into abandoned tunnel systems, keeping the disruption going even after one animal is removed.

What stops the clock
Trapping — the extension-endorsed effective method for removing an active mole. Regrading and reseeding hold once the mole, and any new arrivals, are gone. Grub insecticide is not the fix, since earthworms, not grubs, drive most mole activity in the first place.
Repair scope

Who actually fixes this

Scope, not dollars — the honest answer to “how expensive is it,” routed to the right trade.

Who fixes it
You — a DIY patch
Effort
An afternoon

Repairing the lawn — tamping ridges, filling and reseeding mound sites — is ordinary homeowner-grade work once a mole is no longer active. Actually removing the mole is a wildlife-control task, not a structural or household pest-control one.

The right order
  1. 1
    Confirm the culprit is actually a mole (raised surface ridges, volcano-shaped mounds) rather than a vole (surface runways with chewed vegetation but no mounds) — the fix differs depending on which animal it is
  2. 2
    Trap the active mole using extension-recommended methods; poison grain baits perform poorly because moles rarely eat grain, and grub insecticide targets the wrong food source
  3. 3
    Tamp down ridges and fill or reseed mound sites once activity has stopped for a couple of weeks
Route by symptom
  • Wildlife / exclusion specialistYou'd rather not handle trapping yourself, or the tunneling is extensive and keeps recurring
  • ISA-certified arboristRoot or bark damage to a valued shrub or tree turns out to be real feeding injury — that points to voles, not moles, and is worth confirming before you treat for the wrong animal
Do not
  • Don't apply grub insecticide expecting mole control — extension sources note it can increase digging short-term and doesn't target what moles actually eat
  • Don't assume eaten roots or bulbs are mole damage — that points to voles, and treating for the wrong animal wastes the effort
Where we help — and where we don't

This is genuinely not an Anchor job. Moles are a lawn and wildlife matter, not a structural or household pest issue, and we'd rather point you to a wildlife control operator for trapping and UNH Cooperative Extension for lawn repair than sell you a treatment plan that doesn't fit.

In depth

The full picture

01

What moles actually eat — and why it matters

Moles are insectivores, not herbivores. Their diet is dominated by earthworms, with grubs and other soil invertebrates rounding it out. In New Hampshire, the two species homeowners actually encounter are the hairy-tailed mole and the star-nosed mole, and both hunt the same way: tunneling just beneath the surface, feeling for prey by touch, and consuming whatever invertebrates they encounter along the way.

That single fact settles the whole question. A mole tunneling through a garden bed isn't after your tomato roots or your tulip bulbs — it's after the earthworms living in that soil, and the plants are simply sitting above ground it happens to be moving through.

02

Why 'treat the grubs, get rid of the moles' backfires

It's an intuitive-sounding fix: grubs are part of a mole's diet, so killing the grubs should starve out the mole. University of Missouri Extension addresses this directly and states that grub insecticides should not be used for mole control. Where mole activity does decline after a grub treatment, the extension source attributes it to a different mechanism entirely — the product also kills earthworms, which some grub insecticides reduce by as much as 70%, and earthworms are the mole's primary food. You end up removing the actual food source (and a beneficial soil organism along with it) rather than the grubs you were targeting, and the mole may simply move on to easier hunting elsewhere rather than starve.

03

What the damage really looks like

The honest ceiling here is cosmetic. Moles produce two visible signs: shallow surface ridges from daily foraging tunnels, and volcano-shaped mounds of excavated soil from deeper permanent runs. Both disfigure a lawn's appearance and can make mowing a chore. Occasionally, a shallow-rooted seedling or small plant sitting directly above an active tunnel gets heaved or dislodged as an incidental side effect of the digging — not because the mole targeted it.

What doesn't happen is plant death from feeding. No amount of mole tunneling consumes a root system, strips bark, or hollows out a bulb, because none of that is on a mole's menu.

04

The animal people actually mean: voles

When homeowners describe roots, bulbs, or bark actually being eaten, the animal responsible is almost always a vole, not a mole — two different rodents that get confused constantly because both dig and both leave visible ground disturbance. Voles are herbivores that genuinely gnaw roots, bulbs, and the bark of young trees and shrubs, sometimes badly enough to kill the plant. Telling them apart matters because the fix is different: mole damage is cosmetic turf repair, while vole damage is a genuine plant-health problem that calls for protecting trunks and roots directly. Our companion page on vole and gopher damage covers that distinction in full.

Key takeaways
5 points
  • No — moles are insectivores that eat earthworms and grubs, not plants. They are not 'ruining' your garden by feeding on it.
  • The real damage is cosmetic: raised tunnel ridges and volcano-shaped mounds that disfigure a lawn.
  • Treating grubs to control moles is a myth — extension sources say don't do it, since earthworms, not grubs, are the mole's main food.
  • If roots or bulbs are actually being eaten, the animal is almost certainly a vole, not a mole.
  • The fix is trapping (wildlife control) plus lawn repair (tamping and reseeding) — not a pest-control treatment plan.
New Hampshire context

Moist New Hampshire soils keep moles (and their food) active

Southern and central New Hampshire's typically moist spring and fall soils support healthy earthworm populations, which is exactly what keeps hairy-tailed and star-nosed moles actively tunneling in local lawns during those seasons. Activity tends to ease in the driest part of summer and slow further as the ground firms up toward Manchester's first hard frost, historically around October 19 to 29.

If you're seeing new ridges or mounds appear specifically after a rainy stretch, that's consistent with mole activity tracking earthworm availability — not a sign that anything in your garden beds is being eaten.

  • NH-licensed #782664

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We serve these communities

ManchesterNashuaConcordDerryBedfordSalemHudsonAmherstAuburnGoffstownHooksettLitchfieldLoudonMilfordBristol

Service Area Map

Southern New Hampshire

BristolPop. 3,200LoudonPop. 5,500ConcordPop. 43,900HooksettPop. 14,800GoffstownPop. 18,000AuburnPop. 5,700ManchesterPop. 115,600BedfordPop. 23,300LitchfieldPop. 8,500AmherstPop. 11,300DerryPop. 34,500MilfordPop. 15,700HudsonPop. 25,600NashuaPop. 91,100SalemPop. 30,000HQCityHover for info

Moles are a lawn matter, not a pest-control one.

Your garden isn't being eaten — but if a different pest is actually damaging your home or landscape, Anchor can help.

Follow-up questions

Frequently asked

Sources & citations(4)
  1. University of Missouri Extension, G9440 — Controlling Nuisance Moles

    Mole diet (earthworm-dominated); grub insecticides should not be used for mole control

    extensionverified 2026-07-16
  2. University of Missouri IPM — How to control moles and reduce turfgrass damage

    Grub insecticides can reduce earthworm populations up to 70%; not an effective mole-control method

    extensionverified 2026-07-16
  3. Penn State Extension — Moles

    Mole species biology and insectivore diet

    extensionverified 2026-07-16
  4. Maine DACF GotPests — Moles in Lawns (NH fact sheet)

    New Hampshire mole species (hairy-tailed, star-nosed) and damage description

    govverified 2026-07-16

Written & reviewed by

Verified

Daniel Brady

NH-Licensed Pesticide Applicator · License #782664 (NHDAMF, RSA 430)

Daniel Brady is the New Hampshire–licensed applicator behind Anchor Pest Services, a family-owned pest control company serving the Manchester area since 2017.

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Last updated Jul 2026

Honest pest help for New Hampshire homes

We'll Tell You When It's Not Our Job.

Moles disrupt turf, not plants, and removing one is wildlife control, not pest control — we'll route you to the right operator rather than sell you a treatment plan. If you have a genuine structural or household pest problem, Anchor Pest Services genuinely helps with that. Family-owned since 2017, NH license #782664, serving Manchester, Nashua, Concord and nearby towns.

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