Do mothballs or ammonia get rid of squirrels and skunks naturally?

Not reliably. Scent repellents like mothballs and ammonia-soaked rags give inconsistent, short-lived results at best — the animal often just moves to a different corner of the space rather than leaving. Mothballs are also a pesticide with a label; using them off-label (loose in an attic, for example) isn't a safe or legal application. Exclusion and attractant removal are the durable fix.

Do ultrasonic repellers work on squirrels, raccoons, or skunks?

No dependable evidence supports them. The Internet Center for Wildlife Damage Management (ICWDM) does not recommend ultrasonic devices and notes animals habituate to the sound, and the effect doesn't carry through walls, furniture, or over distance outdoors, so a plug-in unit in one room does little for an attic or a yard. If you want a device-based deterrent, motion-activated lights or sprinklers have somewhat better field support than ultrasonic units, but neither replaces attractant removal and physical exclusion as the durable fix.

Can I trap and relocate a squirrel or skunk myself in NH?

Often restricted. New Hampshire regulates the trapping and relocation of wildlife, and moving an animal to a new area can spread disease or leave dependent young behind. The legal, humane approach is exclusion — letting the animal leave on its own through a one-way door, then sealing the entry — not DIY trap-and-release. Check current rules with NH Fish & Game before acting.

Is it safe to handle a raccoon, skunk, or bat myself?

No. Raccoons, skunks, bats, and foxes account for the large majority of US rabies cases (CDC), so direct handling is a real health risk, not just an inconvenience. An animal that's active during the day, unsteady, or unusually tame should be treated as a possible rabies concern — keep pets and people away and call animal control or NH Fish & Game rather than approaching it.

Are chipmunks and squirrels a rabies risk?

Almost never. NH DHHS notes small rodents like mice, squirrels, and chipmunks are rarely found infected with rabies, so a chipmunk under the porch is a nuisance issue, not a health emergency. Woodchuck bites are treated a little differently and warrant a call to your health department out of caution, but routine sightings of these smaller mammals don't carry the same risk as raccoons or skunks.

What's the safest natural way to remove a small mammal from my house?

Confirm no young are present, remove food and shelter attractants (secure trash, bring in pet food, close deck/shed gaps), then install a one-way exclusion door so the animal can exit but not re-enter. Seal the opening with hardware cloth or flashing once you've confirmed it's out. This works because it doesn't rely on the animal disliking a smell — it simply removes the option to stay.

Is natural small-mammal control safe for my pets?

Keep pets away from any wildlife encounter and make sure their rabies vaccination is current — NH law requires it for dogs, cats, and ferrets three months and older. Skunk and raccoon feces can also carry roundworm, so avoid letting pets dig near dens or investigate droppings. None of the natural methods here (exclusion, attractant removal) pose a direct hazard to pets when used as described.

What if I seal an animal inside by mistake?

This is one of the most common DIY mistakes and it's a serious one — a sealed-in animal will either die in the wall (odor, flies, structural damage) or claw its way further into the house. Always confirm the animal has actually left, ideally by watching a one-way door work for several days, before permanently sealing the opening. If you're unsure, a Wildlife Control Operator can verify with a camera before you close it up.

Do natural repellents work better outdoors, like in a garden?

Somewhat, but still inconsistently. Physical barriers such as fencing and buried hardware-cloth dig guards reliably keep woodchucks and rabbits out of a garden bed, while scent and taste repellents need frequent reapplication, wash off after rain, and produce results that vary by species and how hungry the animal is. Treat any repellent as a supplement to fencing, not a replacement for it, and expect to reapply it through the growing season for it to have any effect at all.

When should I call a wildlife professional instead of DIY?

Call a licensed operator for any rabies-vector species (raccoon, skunk, fox, bat), an animal denning inside living space, one behaving abnormally, or a situation where young may be present and you can't confirm it's safe to exclude. Anchor coordinates legal, humane exclusion and can verify an animal has left before permanent sealing — the step where DIY most often goes wrong.

Natural & OrganicSmall Mammal Pests

Natural Small Mammal Control: Exclusion Works, Repellents Mostly Don't

TL;DR

Exclusion and attractant removal rate MODERATE — they work once the animal has actually left, but they can't evict a mother with young inside. Scent repellents (mothballs, ammonia) and ultrasonic devices rate LOW: results are inconsistent and short-lived. In New Hampshire, wildlife law limits what you can legally do yourself, especially with rabies-vector species.

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NH License #782664Family-owned since 2017Updated Jul 2026

Top US rabies vectors
Raccoons, skunks, bats, and foxes
CDC / NH DHHS — never handle these animals directly.
Low-risk species
Small rodents (squirrels, chipmunks) are almost never found rabid
NH DHHS; woodchuck bites still warrant a health-department call.
Scent repellents
Mothballs/ammonia: inconsistent, short-lived results
ICWDM Repellents: mothballs/naphthalene rarely repel wildlife; questionable efficacy, not a durable fix.
Legal limit that changes the plan
Trapping/relocating wildlife is restricted under NH law
NH Fish & Game — check rules before acting.

The honest verdict

Does this actually work?

MODERATE for exclusion + attractant removal once the animal is confirmed gone; LOW for scent repellents and ultrasonic devices.

Works — Moderate

Evidence: NH Fish & Game and pest-industry exclusion guidance treat physical exclusion (one-way doors, sealed entries) as the reliable, lawful method once occupancy is confirmed clear. Scent repellents (mothballs, ammonia) and ultrasonic devices show inconsistent, short-lived field results — ICWDM reports mothballs/naphthalene rarely repel wildlife and that animals habituate to ultrasonic devices, so neither is endorsed as a standalone fix by wildlife authorities.

Works when

No young are present, or you wait until they're mobile and leave with the mother
Attractants (trash, pet food, birdseed) are removed first
A one-way exclusion door is used and monitored before sealing
The entry point is sealed with durable material (hardware cloth, flashing) once the space is confirmed empty

Fails when

You rely on mothballs, ammonia, or ultrasonic devices alone
You seal an opening before confirming the animal has left
Young are trapped inside when an adult is excluded
You attempt to handle or relocate a rabies-vector species yourself

At a glance

The natural approach that actually removes small mammals — legally

How it works

Moderate DIY

Natural small-mammal control leans on removing what draws the animal in (food, shelter, easy denning sites), then physically excluding it once it's confirmed gone — rather than relying on scent, sound, or taste to drive it away. A one-way exclusion door lets the resident animal leave on its own schedule while blocking re-entry, which sidesteps both the welfare and legal problems of DIY trapping.

Vital stats

Time: Days to a few weeks, depending on species and whether young are present
Best for: Squirrels, chipmunks, raccoons, and opossums denning in attics, sheds, chimneys, or under decks and porches, where the goal is legal, humane removal rather than lethal control.
Cost: Moderate — exclusion materials (hardware cloth, one-way doors, flashing) plus time to monitor

A squirrel in the attic or a skunk under the deck tends to trigger the same search: some scent, gadget, or home remedy promising to send it packing tonight. Mothballs, ammonia-soaked rags, and ultrasonic plug-ins are the most common answers online, and the honest evidence is that none of them reliably work — results are inconsistent and wear off fast, because a determined animal habituates to smell and sound.

What genuinely works is slower and less exciting: remove what's feeding it, confirm no young are trapped inside, install a one-way exclusion door so the animal can leave but not return, then seal the opening permanently. That's the real "natural" method — and in New Hampshire it comes with legal guardrails, because several of these species carry rabies risk and trapping/relocating wildlife is restricted. This page grades the popular remedies honestly and walks through the humane, legal version that holds up.

Step by step

How to do it

Identify the animal and check for young
Confirm the species and, if it's spring or summer, watch for signs of dependent young (persistent chewing/scratching sounds, a den entrance used at consistent times). Do not exclude a mother from her litter.
Caution: Sealing an animal in — or a mother out from young — is both inhumane and a common cause of far worse damage inside the structure.
Remove attractants
Secure trash cans with locking lids, bring pet food indoors overnight, clean up fallen birdseed, and pick up fallen fruit. Most small-mammal problems start with an easy food source.
Tip: A locking trash can alone resolves many raccoon and opossum visits without any further intervention.
Install a one-way exclusion door
Mount a one-way door over the active entry so the animal can leave to forage but can't return. Monitor for several days to confirm activity has stopped before moving to the next step.
Tip: Sprinkle a thin layer of flour just inside the entrance — outbound-only tracks confirm the space is empty.
Seal the entry permanently
Once you've confirmed the space is empty, cover the opening with ¼-inch hardware cloth or metal flashing, fastened securely — not foam or plastic, which most of these species can chew or claw through.
Caution: Wear heavy gloves and avoid direct contact with droppings or nesting material during cleanup; skunk and raccoon feces can carry roundworm.
Reduce habitat that invites the next animal
Trim tree limbs away from the roofline, elevate woodpiles off the ground, close gaps under decks and sheds with buried hardware cloth, and cap the chimney with a proper spark arrestor/cap.
Tip: A chimney cap is one of the highest-value single fixes — chimneys are a common raccoon and squirrel den site.
Escalate rabies-vector or abnormal-behavior situations immediately
If the animal is a raccoon, skunk, fox, or bat, or is acting strangely (active by day, unsteady, unusually tame), stop DIY handling entirely and contact local animal control or NH Fish & Game.
Caution: Raccoons, skunks, bats, and foxes account for the majority of US rabies cases — never attempt to handle one directly.

What you need

Tools & materials

One-way exclusion door
Lets the resident animal leave without re-entering
Species-appropriate size; not for use during dependent-young season
¼-inch hardware cloth
Durable, chew-resistant permanent seal over entry points
Galvanized mesh; bury the edge for ground-level gaps
Metal flashing
Seals larger openings (soffits, roof edges, chimney gaps)
More durable than foam or plastic against gnawing/clawing
Heavy work gloves
Protects against direct contact during cleanup
Never bare-handle a wild mammal or its waste
Locking trash cans
Removes the primary food attractant
Raccoons in particular are skilled at opening standard lids
Chimney cap / spark arrestor
Blocks a common denning entry point
Pro installation recommended for roof-height work

Products & actives

What to use — the label is the law

Product classes only — never a dosage. Always read and follow the product label.

One-way excluder devices

Active class: Mechanical (no chemical)

Humane eviction of a denning animal before permanent sealing

Do not install during birthing/dependent-young season for the target species

L-shaped dig-barrier mesh

Active class: Mechanical (no chemical)

Stops burrowing under decks, sheds, and foundations

Bury the horizontal leg outward from the structure per manufacturer guidance

Motion-activated lights or sprinklers

Active class: Mechanical/electronic deterrent

Situational deterrent for open-yard visitors (skunks, raccoons)

Supplement to exclusion, not a standalone fix; animals can habituate over time

Stay safe

Safety first

General
High risk
Raccoons, skunks, bats, and foxes are the leading US rabies vectors — never handle a wild mammal directly, and treat daytime activity or unsteady, unusually tame behavior as a warning sign that warrants animal control, not DIY handling.
Pets
Caution
Keep pets away from wildlife encounters, dens, and droppings — skunk and raccoon feces can carry roundworm — and confirm dog, cat, and ferret rabies vaccinations are current, as NH law requires for pets three months and older.
General
Caution
Never seal an entry point without confirming the animal (and any young) have left — a sealed-in animal causes worse structural and odor problems and is inhumane.
Children
Caution
Keep children away from active dens, chimneys, and any wildlife exclusion work; do not let them approach an animal that appears tame or is active during the day.

Avoid these

Common mistakes

Why this method fails in practice.

Relying on mothballs, ammonia, or ultrasonic devices instead of exclusion
Sealing an opening before confirming the animal has actually left
Excluding a mother from dependent young, leaving them trapped or orphaned
Attempting to trap, handle, or relocate a raccoon, skunk, or other rabies-vector species without a license
Sealing gaps with foam or plastic that these animals can chew or claw through

New Hampshire context

Natural small-mammal control in New Hampshire

NH Fish & Game regulates the trapping and relocation of wildlife, and rabies-vector species (raccoons, skunks, foxes, bats) require extra caution — never handle one directly, and call animal control or a licensed Wildlife Control Operator if one is acting strangely or is active during the day. Spring and summer are the riskiest seasons to exclude an animal, since young are often present and dependent; sealing a mother out from her litter creates a worse problem (and can be inhumane) than leaving the animal alone until the young are mobile.

Peak season

Spring–summer (young present); fall den-seeking before winter

Trapping and relocating wildlife is restricted under NH law; confirm rules with NH Fish & Game before acting, especially for rabies-vector species.

NH DHHS advises never handling wild mammals directly and routing rabies-vector encounters to local animal control or NH Fish & Game.

This method targets

Pests this applies to

Raccoon

Opossum

Chipmunk

Eastern Gray Squirrel

When to call a pro

Wildlife / Nuisance Animal Control with Anchor

Natural exclusion works well once an animal is confirmed clear of the space, but rabies-vector species, dependent young, or animals denning deep inside a structure are past what DIY should attempt — both for safety and under NH wildlife law. Anchor's licensed technicians confirm occupancy, install proper one-way exclusion, and complete the legal, humane removal and seal.

Call us when…

The animal is a raccoon, skunk, fox, or bat, or any species behaving abnormally
You suspect dependent young are present and can't confirm safe timing
The animal is denning inside living space or a wall/ceiling void
DIY exclusion hasn't stopped activity after a reasonable monitoring period
You're unsure whether trapping or relocation is legal for your situation

Wildlife / Nuisance Animal Control

free inspection; same-day service across southern and central New Hampshire.

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Keep them out

Secure trash with locking lids and bring pet food indoors overnight
Cap chimneys and seal foundation, deck, and shed gaps with hardware cloth
Trim tree limbs away from the roofline to remove access routes

Common questions

Frequently asked

Sources & further reading(7)

[1]
NH DHHS — Zoonotic Diseases (rabies guidance)
Never handle wildlife directly; small rodents rarely rabid; woodchuck bite guidance; NH pet vaccination requirement
govverified 2026-07-13
[2]
CDC — Rabies Prevention
Raccoons, skunks, bats, and foxes as primary US rabies vectors
govverified 2026-07-13
[3]
NH Fish & Game — Nuisance Wildlife & Homeowners
Restrictions on trapping/relocating wildlife; licensed Wildlife Control Operator role
govverified 2026-07-13
[4]
NH Fish & Game — Laws and Rules
General NH wildlife-law framework governing DIY trapping/exclusion
govverified 2026-07-13
[5]
ASPCA — Essential Oils and Pets
Pet-safety framing for scent-based repellent products
medicalverified 2026-07-13
[6]
ICWDM (Internet Center for Wildlife Damage Management) — Repellents
Scent repellents (mothballs/naphthalene) rarely repel wildlife and give inconsistent, short-lived results; questionable efficacy
extensionverified 2026-07-22
[7]
ICWDM — Tree Squirrel & Rodent Damage Prevention (ultrasonic devices)
Ultrasonic devices are not recommended; animals habituate to the sound and the deterrent becomes ineffective
extensionverified 2026-07-22

Written & reviewed by

Verified

Daniel Brady

NH-Licensed Pesticide Applicator · License #782664 (NHDAMF, RSA 430)

Daniel Brady is the New Hampshire–licensed applicator behind Anchor Pest Services, a family-owned pest control company serving the Manchester area since 2017.

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Anchor Pest Services

When small mammal pests won't quit, we will.

Same-day service across Southern New Hampshire. NH-licensed #782664. Family-owned since 2017. We diagnose the pest, then treat it the right way — with a satisfaction guarantee.

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Keep Exploring

Natural Small Mammal Control: Exclusion Works, Repellents Mostly Don't

Works when

Fails when

The natural approach that actually removes small mammals — legally

How it works

How to do it

Identify the animal and check for young

Remove attractants

Install a one-way exclusion door

Seal the entry permanently

Reduce habitat that invites the next animal

Escalate rabies-vector or abnormal-behavior situations immediately

Tools & materials

One-way exclusion door

¼-inch hardware cloth

Metal flashing

Heavy work gloves

Locking trash cans

Chimney cap / spark arrestor